Cochise Christmas 2022

Climbs 1abc: Reen's Arete (5.7R, 1-2 pitches) + Unnamed (5.10-, 3 pitches) + Stage Fright (5.11+, 1 pitch)  

Reen's Arete follows the south buttress where the SW and SE faces of Stronghold Dome meet, and then continues up the second pitch of Beeline to the top. We then climbed a 3-pitch unnamed bolted line. After this we toproped Stage Fright, a 5.11+ blank friction face below the lowest rappel on the descent. We would have climbed one more route (Welcome to the Stronghold was our vote) but we needed to get settled into our Airbnb so we headed back out mid-afternoon.

Climb 2: Absinthe of Mallet (5.10-, 7 pitches)

Nate and I had not climbed on the west side on either of our two previous trips to Cochise, so we decided to spend the day climbing a route on Sheepshead. We chose Absinthe of Mallet, which is described as arguably one of the best routes in Cochise. This route requires many different Stronghold techniques. The route was developed over many years to reach its present state. Nate and I thought the climbing on this route was great and had a wonderful day, despite the chilly rain (and some snow) storm that we weathered half way up the route.

Climb 3: Dark Horse (5.10-, 6 pitches)

We had enjoyed climbing on The Sheepshead so much the day before that we returned for another route. Dark Horse is another 3-star 5.10- route on The Sheepshead, featuring a fun second pitch chimney followed by a few pitches of engaging face climbing. The sun was out and we enjoyed the glorious weather.

Climbs 4abc: Welcome to the Stronghold (5.10+, 3 pitches) + Unnamed Pitch 3 (5.10-, 1 pitch) + Direct Start to Reen's Arete (5.10+, 1 pitch)

We returned to Stronghold Dome. Our main objective was Welcome to the Stronghold. This climb is excellent, characterized by a stretch of pure friction climbing on the crux pitch, which is a solid introduction to what a shoe can stick to at Cochise. Afterwards we tacked on two more pitches: Pitch 3 of Unnamed when our rope got stuck on the rappel descent (we had climbed the full Unnamed a few days earlier) and the Direct Start to Reen's Arete, an excellent stand-alone pitch of 5.10+ climbing and a great addition to a day at Stronghold Dome.

Climbs 5a&b: You Bet Your Life (5.10, 2 pitches) & Concentration (5.11, 2 pitches)

Climbing these two routes back-to-back make for four excellent pitches of climbing without having to haul approach shoes on the harness. Both routes begin off a large boulder located about halfway up the right side of Cochise Dome, and share the same anchors. The rock quality is great and the climbing is engaging. You Bet Your Life is the left of the two routes, and climbs a 5.10 crack/corner system for two pitches (the original first ascent climbed left at the top of the second pitch to intersect What's My Line, but this creates a runout section on poor rock—nowadays most climbers just climb right to the anchor at the top of the second pitch of Concentration). Bolts (added after the 5.10X first ascent) made this fabulous line a more reasonable affair. Concentration is just right of You Bet Your Life and climbs a superb corner and a steep bolted slab (the crux). It is possible to climb to the top via a third pitch of 5.8R climbing (we decided not to since we had already been to the top of Cochise Dome and it was easy to rappel back to the base using the route's anchors). 

Climb 6: Cosmic Purity (5.9, 2 pitches)

This all-trad (no bolts!) provides a quick and fun romp to the top of Waterfall Dome. We were impressed with the quality of the rock and abundance of 1- and 2-pitch routes, and made note to return to Waterfall Dome if we wanted a day with several pitches of lower-commitment climbing.

Climbs 7abcdef: Unnamed (5.10-, 1p), Unnamed Left (5.10-, 2p), Unnamed Right (5.10, 2p), Magnas Coloradas (5.11-, 1p), Unnamed (5.11-, 1p), The Nose Goes P1&2 (5.8 R, 2p)

The previous year, we had climbed a day with Scott Ayers (perhaps the most prolific first ascentionist in Cochise with an incredible eye for a good line—most of the routes we've climbed in Cochise have been established by Scott). So we had let him know we were in the area again, and he was psyched to meet up with us for a day of climbing. We headed to Stronghold/Worm/Murray Domes area for a tour of several superb not-known-to-the-general-public-one-and-two-pitch routes he had recently put up. We climbed nine pitches on excellent rock.

Climb 8: Pair a Grins (5.10, 3 pitches)

When we had climbed Forest Lawn the previous year, we had noted to come back and climb Pair a Grins, which combines the spectacular corner of Pitch 1 of Forest Lawn with a wonderfully exposed detour onto the featured face for Pitch 2. A typical Stronghold experience very well worth it if you have a good lead head.

Climb 9: Welcome to the Machine (5.10, 5 pitches)

Welcome to the Machine starts right of Endgame (which we had climbed in 2020) and ends left of Endgame, and offers a similar quality and difficulty of climbing. We enjoyed another adventure to the top of End Pinnacle. The Sons of Gums descent was as always a fun way to get down.

Climbs 10a&b: Splish Splash P1 (5.8, 1 pitch) + Unnamed (5.10, 2 pitches) 

We had planned to climb up at the Rockfellow area on this splitter day, but it just didn't feel like the day to push it hard, so we hiked back down and nabbed a few pitches at Waterfall Dome before heading the rest of the way out.

Climbs 11a&b: The Roedel Route (5.11-, 4 pitches) + What the Thunder Said (5.10, 2 pitches) 

Our Christmas present was a forecast for sunny, calm, and a high of 60°. We had not yet climbed on Waste Land Dome this trip, so we headed there for the day. The Roedel Route features lots of interesting, demanding climbing on superior quality rock. Each pitch has some 5.10+/5.11- climbing and as well as an intimidating roof section. Another must-do route. On the descent, we nabbed a couple of bonus pitches (and another summit tag) by climbing What the Thunder Said.

Climb 12: The Peacemaker (5.10-, 6-7 pitches)

This is one of the three most popular routes on the Sheepshead, with interesting climbing throughout its length. I had climbed this route in 2015 (click here to go to my Cochise 2015 trip report) as my first ever climb in the Stronghold. It was fun to climb again.

Climb 13: Ewephoria (5.8+, 5 pitches)

After climbing The Peacemaker, it was still early in the afternoon and such a splitter day, so we decided a quick lap up Ewephoria was in order. With its moderate grade and generally well-protected climbing, Ewephoria is the most popular route on the Sheepshead. As the guidebook mentions, diverse climbing at a moderate grade on high quality rock make this a must-do route, no matter how hard you climb. 

Climb 14: The Climb too Tough to Die (5.10-, 6 pitches)

This is another of the 3-star 5.10- classic routes on the Sheepshead. It is also the longest route on the formation. The climbing is mostly 5.8-5.9 with the occasional 5.10- move to keep you on your toes. It was shortly after noon when we finished this route, so afterward we decided to head over to the Muttonhead for another few pitches of climbing.

Climb 15: The Inevitable Awaits You (5.11-, 3 pitches)

It was shortly after noon when we finished The Climb Too Tough To Die on the Sheepshead, so we decided to head over to the Muttonhead for another three-star adventure. The Inevitable Awaits You is the first bolt line on the left side of the face, located to the left of the obvious left-facing dihedral that marks the first pitch of Mystery of the Desert. Each pitch presents challenging 5.11-/10+ climbing on impeccable stone. The route goes quick since the descent is to rap right back down to the base. This was one of our favorite routes on the trip and a great addition to the day.

Weather/groceries/puzzle day (1st, 0 pitches)

Sooner or later the weather had to shut us down....when we awoke it was unusually warm, super windy, and there was a threat of rain. But after 11 straight days of climbing and a need to make a grocery run, a rest day was not unwelcome. I spent the day enjoying a 1000-piece puzzle, catching up on my trip report, and eating cocktail shrimp while Nate read, napped, munched on chips and salsa, and watched YouTube.

Climbs 16abcdefg: The Grand Wazoo (5.9, 1p), Burnt Weenie Sandwich (5.10, 1p), Weasels Ripped My Flesh (5.11, 1p), Latent Appliance Fetishist (5.10, 1p), Playground Psychotics (5.10-, 1p), You Are What You Is (5.10-, 1p), We're Only In It For The Money (5.10-, 1p)

It was cloudy in the mid-50's, so we headed to Zappa Dome, a sport climbing crag on steep rock on the east side, popular for its short approach and density of routes and sunny aspect. A Frank Zappa aficionado might recognize the route names from the artist's repertoire. We climbed all of the 5.10's and the single 5.11 on the wall.

Climb 17: Nobody F**cks with the Jesus (5.10-, 2 pitches) + I Dabbled in Pacifism Pitch 3 (5.10+, 1 pitch)

The Lebowski Wall is located on the rocky ridge that parallels FS 4809. The wall faces NE and is lower than many of the large rock formations. Almost all of the routes are sport and are 1-3 pitches in length. This is a great place for a day of cragging when conditions are not as favorable or comfortable up high. So the Lebowski Wall was a good choice when an overnight rain shower produced morning clouds and damp rock and we had to forgo our plans to do something bigger (we had planned to go back to the Muttonhead on the west side). We climbed a few pitches (including the final pitch of I Dabbled in Pacifism—we had climbed the first two pitches the previous year and had not been able to climb the third pitch due to a rainstorm). We tried to climb another route but the rock was a tad damp and the wall was now in the shade, so we headed back to the airbnb to enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the porch reading (Nate) and working a logic puzzle (me). 

Climbs 18abcd: No More Credit From the Liquor Store (5.10+, 3 pitches) + I'm Your Huckleberry (5.11-, 4 pitches) + Tour Buses Welcome Pitch 1 (5.9, 1 pitch) + Mystery of the Desert (5.10-, 6 pitches)

We needed to get in 14 pitches in order to reach 100 total pitches for the trip. We thought we could do it. The Muttonhead was a good choice. What an awesome day of climbing to cap off our awesome trip.

No More Credit From the Liquor Store - This  is another multipitch bolted line on the southwest face of Muttonhead. Although bearing the same name as the original line this modified route is more direct and offers superior, quality climbing. Start in the left-facing, arching corner, with bolt line above. 

I'm Your Huckleberry - This route starts at the toe of the SE corner of The Muttonhead, directly below the huge boulder leaning against the dome.

Tour Buses Welcome - This enjoyable climb begins just t the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab, save a curous oval-shaped indentation on the third pitch, which has interesting stemming.

Mystery of the Desert - It is no mystery why this route is one of the most popular climbs in the area. It's a classic with good variety, good rock quality, and the top of another dome.